‘World’s most photographed beach’ is the epitome of paradise (2024)

Would you pay almost $20 to access a beach? I did, twice. It’s not an easy feat getting there; pursuing true utopia never is. Anse Source d’Argent is often touted as the “world’s most photographed beach”.

The beach is on La Digue, one of 115 islands in the Seychelles archipelago north of Madagascar. It takes just under two hours via fast ferry from the country’s main island, Mahe. Considering how far-flung island-hopping in the western Indian Ocean is, what’s an extra splurge to visit the epitome of paradise?

La Digue is one of Seychelles’ most popular destinations. Locals say each island boasts its own personality. If that’s the case, La Digue is the laidback, chill, blasé younger sibling to Praslin – another island popular with holidaymakers. But unlike La Digue’s two larger island counterparts, the 2800 residents here enjoy a pace of life that is a bit behind the times. Not that it’s a bad thing – quite the contrary.

The 10-square-kilometre territory is like a sister island to Western Australia’s Rottnest; both blips in the Indian Ocean, abundant with pristine landscapes – above and below sea level – and photogenic mascots. Each is ruled by bikes, largely absent of cars, and woo beachgoers with unspoiled beaches. Towering resorts? Commercialised haunts? Too touristy? No, none of those.

But, sorry Rotto, La Digue is in a league of its own.

As we pull into the island’s main jetty, it becomes evident that pictures spruiking La Digue on brochures, travel books, and websites don’t lie. The tropical island is skirted by white sands, vodka-clear waters fringed by leaning palms, and a delightful jumble of smooth granite boulders. This low-key island really is a utopia, and I cannot wait to visit that beach.

Wanting to make the most of my three days, I go to the first bike vendor I see, moments from La Digue ferry harbour. Bikes are the easiest, most convenient way to get around the island, with a few hill climbs and main roads making up Tour La Digue. Roads don’t go all the way around, with some beaches only accessed by unpaved trails, making exploring even more adventurous.

I rent a no-frills bike from a jovial elder named J. Rose. It is a good omen – we are close to sharing the same name. Bikes are about SCR150 ($16) a day to hire, but there can be wiggle room to negotiate for multi-day rental. He gives me mates’ rates. Thanks JR.

In another world of coincidence, my accommodation, Zerof Guesthouse, is attached to his wife’s small convenience store. Degrees of separation are non-existent. I don’t have a map, so he offers to take me in his golf buggy – another novel way to get around. (It turns out you don’t really need a map.) We pass low-rise buildings, lush forests and brightly coloured shacks.

Guesthouses are in the majority. My room is simple: terracotta tiled floors, wooden furnishings, mosquito net and questionable decor – a framed picture of a boy toddler patting a giant tortoise hangs over the double bed. It’s strange, but I’ll save the tortoise talk for later.

I am hungry and cycle two minutes to the nearest restaurant, Gala Takeaway. The fluorescent-yellow shanty offers delicious fast, home-cooked Creole cuisine – a fusion of Indian, Asian, and European flavours. I opt for a mix of fish and veggie curries from the bain-marie. For roughly $7, this is one of the cheapest meals on the island and an authentic Seychellios feed. I can taste the love – real soul food.

Back on the bike, it’s an easy 10-minute cycle on flat ground to Anse Severe, a beach flecked with colourful wooden bungalows, including the rainbow-coloured Bikini Bottom Bar. The bar’s hand-painted signage features the native cocos de mer, the world’s largest nut, which looks like a double coconut or a bum wearing a skimpy thong – cheeky. The beach scene is a vivid sight; it reflects the island’s playful, cheery vibes.

Almost there, I spot something blocking the coastal path. A giant rock? No, it’s possibly the island’s most photographed resident, Papaya, an Aldabra giant tortoise. These tortoises are one of the world’s largest, usually over a metre in length and can weigh up to 250 kilograms.

I am fascinated by this enormous doe-eyed tortoise, roaming freely albeit slowly, only too nonchalant about obstructing the road. People on bikes pull over, pat the docile creature and roll on. I am truly captivated by its unhurried crusade and take the obligatory selfie.

It’s not the last tortoise sighting. A day pass to L’Union Estate Park is SCR150 ($17). Beyond the gates is a plethora of attractions: an Instagram-worthy pathway fringed with palms, coconut and vanilla plantations; beach bars; an Aldabra Giant Tortoise enclosure filled with the living relics; transparent kayak hire; and access to the island’s crown jewel – that beach, Anse Source d’Argent.

I follow the sandy thoroughfare, naturally ornate with towering grey boulders looming on either side, to the beach. I feel like I am on a Hollywood movie set; it’s imperfectly perfect. A reef shelters the beach; it’s usually calm and shallow when the tide is out. I flop my towel on the shimmering white sand, put on a snorkel, and dive into warm emerald waters. I spot a sea turtle and swim with it for some time over healthy corals. Wow. The extraordinary location becomes even more extraordinary. And I know I’ll be back again.

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The details

Fly
Air Seychelles flies Mauritius to Mahe twice weekly. Australians can fly to Mauritius direct from Perth with Air Mauritius. See airseychelles.com, airmauritius.com

Stay
Rooms at Zerof Guesthouse from SCR1261 ($138) a night, minimum two-night stay. See
zerofguesthouse-seychelles.com

Explore
Cat Cocos journeys from Mahe to La Digue multiple times daily from SCR 2020 ($A220) return. See Catcocos.com

The writer travelled to Mauritius as a guest of Air Mauritius and on to the Seychelles at her own expense.

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