Preferred Barrel Blanks Insight? (2024)

Does anyone know if they use floating pilot reamers or are they all fixed?

I'm thinking I might want to have them wildcat something for me in the future that would require a separate neck and throat team from the body

Redbeard88 said:

I know this is an old thread, but are there anymore reviews on the Preferred Barrels? Looking at possibly ordering one.

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There are quite a few on here that have had excellent results. There are a few barrel makers that make a Tikka pre-fit in a fixed shoulder but the options are limited. I see Preferred is offering hand lapping as an option. Tikka test fires their barrels for the 1 MOA guarantee. With my Tikkas I have broken in the factory barrels. With both barrels after about 15 shots the groups tightened up, copper fouling decreased and they shot a little high at 100 yards, so assuming the muzzle velocity increased some. Should a custom barrel be hand lapped Then?

Redbeard88 said:

I know this is an old thread, but are there anymore reviews on the Preferred Barrels? Looking at possibly ordering one.

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Test target from a budget custom Tikka 25 creed prefit. Fit, finish, and CS was great in my experience. Barrel flat out shoots.

harvey_nw said:

Test target from a budget custom Tikka 25 creed prefit. Fit, finish, and CS was great in my experience. Barrel flat out shoots.
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Looks like a Tikka stock....if i may ask, what is the barrel contour?

Gila said:

Looks like a Tikka stock....if i may ask, what is the barrel contour?

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Tis indeed, I built the rifle to hand off to buddies with kids if they need so I don't care if it gets a little beat up. It's a .75" taperless contour. I was gonna do factory Tikka but PBB says in their research the taperless just tend to have a little more consistent accuracy. A little clearance work with a carbide dremel bit and she is well floated and shoots great. My best friends daughter folded 2 deer in 2 states in 14 hours with it a few weeks ago, the 133 Berger is nasty.

harvey_nw said:

Tis indeed, I built the rifle to hand off to buddies with kids if they need so I don't care if it gets a little beat up. It's a .75" taperless contour. I was gonna do factory Tikka but PBB says in their research the taperless just tend to have a little more consistent accuracy. A little clearance work with a carbide dremel bit and she is well floated and shoots great. My best friends daughter folded 2 deer in 2 states in 14 hours with it a few weeks ago, the 133 Berger is nasty.
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Just curious. What length of barrel are you running? and what is the rifle weight? I am considering a similar build but in 22 Creedmoor.

I had a 25-06 fast twist from them that shot sub-half with factory superformance 117 SSTs, but sold it recently because I got bored.

I also had a 280 AI that shot half inch all day with my handloads.

Both were tikka prefits.

Hope this was helpful.

Redbeard88 said:

Just curious. What length of barrel are you running? and what is the rifle weight? I am considering a similar build but in 22 Creedmoor.

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20" finished length, haven't actually thrown it on a scale but it's lighter than a factory T3X. The .75" is about the avg difference on the Tikka factory sporter contour, minus a couple inches of barrel length and fluting. I'm swapping the optic soon so I'll try to remember to weigh and report back.

harvey_nw said:

20" finished length, haven't actually thrown it on a scale but it's lighter than a factory T3X. The .75" is about the avg difference on the Tikka factory sporter contour, minus a couple inches of barrel length and fluting. I'm swapping the optic soon so I'll try to remember to weigh and report back.

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Thanks for getting back to me. Good to know it’s lighter then the factory tikka.

harvey_nw said:

Tis indeed, I built the rifle to hand off to buddies with kids if they need so I don't care if it gets a little beat up. It's a .75" taperless contour. I was gonna do factory Tikka but PBB says in their research the taperless just tend to have a little more consistent accuracy. A little clearance work with a carbide dremel bit and she is well floated and shoots great. My best friends daughter folded 2 deer in 2 states in 14 hours with it a few weeks ago, the 133 Berger is nasty.
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You took the Dremel to the barrel rather than the stock?

sndmn11 said:

Someone is having too much Saturday night booze.

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Why would you need carbide tool for a stock?

Unckebob said:

Why would you need carbide tool for a stock?

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I think nearly all of the readily available carving bits are carbide. Especially the fat round end cylinders that cut as both a mill and drum to make stock work easy.

sndmn11 said:

I think nearly all of the readily available carving bits are carbide. Especially the fat round end cylinders that cut as both a mill and drum to make stock work easy.

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Got it. I usually do that with the sander bit or a dowel wrapped with sandpaper. Frankly, I never considered doing it with a carving bit.

I will have to try it on my next stock project.

Unckebob said:

Got it. I usually do that with the sander bit or a dowel wrapped with sandpaper. Frankly, I never considered doing it with a carving bit.

I will have to try it on my next stock project.

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It works good for when you need to enlarge areas closer to the action but want to leave the tip end the same. The shank are is a good example and with those bits it it basically like coloring with a sharpie motion to remove material.