By Rick Steves
Swarms of tourists flock to the Greek island of Crete. Many leave, disappointed by the crowds. Try to avoid peak season and the crowded cities. Hike through the rugged interior instead and find a remote corner of the south coast. While ridiculously congested in the height of summer, the 10-mile hike through the Gorge of Samaria can be a Cretan highlight.
Your home base for this loop trip is Hania, a city on Crete's north coast serviced frequently by the overnight boat from Athens. Catch the earliest bus from Hania to Xyloskalo to beat the heat and midday crowds. After a scenic 25-mile bus ride, you'll be standing high above the wild Gorge of Samaria. Xyloskalo is a small lodge, the end of the road, and the beginning of the trail. The bus will be full of hikers; no one else would come here at this hour. The air is crisp, the fresh blue sky is cool, and most of the gorge has yet to see the sun. Before you lies a 10-mile downhill trek, dropping 5,000 feet through some of the most spectacular scenery anywhere in Greece to a black-sand beach on the south coast.
Descend to the floor of the gorge down an hour of steep switchbacks, where you'll reach the stream, a great place for your picnic brunch. A leisurely meal here will bolster your energy, lighten your load, and bring you peace, as this break will let most of the other hikers get ahead of you. If the crowds just won't let up, find solitude by following a stream up a side gorge.
Between you and the Libyan Sea on Crete's southern shore are about eight miles of gently sloping downhill trails. Hiking along the cool creek, you'll pass an occasional deserted farmhouse, lazy goats, and a small ghost town with a well. In the middle of the hike, you'll come to the narrowest (and most photographed) point in the gorge, where only three yards separate the 1,000-foot-high cliffs. Keep your eyes peeled for the nimble, cliff-climbing agrimi, the wild Cretan mountain goats.
Finally, by midafternoon, signs of Greek civilization begin peeking through the bushes. An oleander chorus cheers you along the last leg of your hike to the coast. You'll find a tiny community with a small restaurant and a few cheap places to stay. The town, Agia Roumeli, is accessible only by foot or boat. Three to six times a day, a small boat picks up the hikers and ferries them to Chora Sfakion (last ride is usually around 6:00 p.m.). Before you begin your hike, confirm when the last boat leaves so you can pace yourself.
While you're waiting for the boat (after you buy your ticket), take a dip in the bathtub-warm, crystal-clear waters of the Libyan Sea. Africa is out there somewhere. The black-sand beach absorbs the heat, so wear your shoes right to the water's edge. A free shower is available on the beach.
The hour-long boat ride (or eight-hour hike) to Chora Sfakion passes some of Crete's best beaches and stops briefly at the pleasant fishing village of Loutro (with several pensions). Buses meet each boat at Chora Sfakion to return you to Hania. The untouristy village of Paleohora (west of Agia Roumeli) has great beaches and a bus connection to Hania. In crossing the island of Crete, the bus goes through some dramatic scenery and several untouched villages inhabited by high-booted, long-mustachioed, espresso-drinking Cretans.
FAQs
Allow four to six hours for this hike. Pack light but bring a hearty picnic lunch, a water bottle, and extra film. Food can't be bought in this wonderfully wild gorge, and things get pretty dry and dusty in the summer. There are several springs, and you follow a pure mountain stream through much of the gorge.
How difficult is the Samaria Gorge? ›
Regarding the Samaria Gorge hike difficulty, most people describe it as a fairly challenging route.
Why is Samaria Gorge famous? ›
In subsequent historical periods and during the numerous risings of the Cretan people, the Gorge was a refuge for non-combatants as well as a hiding place for revolutionaries. The Gorge of Samaria was declared a National Park in 1962, and is open to the public from May to October each year.
Is Samaria Gorge worth it? ›
Samaria Gorge (Φαράγγι της Σαμαριάς) An absolute must if you are a hiker and want to experience Crete in its mountainous grandeur. The hike begins in the mountains and for the first few kilometers, it is a winding descent.
Are there toilets in Samaria Gorge? ›
You must have water with you, but since there are several springs inside the Gorge you can refill your bottle. There are toilets in several places along the path.
Can you do the Samaria Gorge without a guide? ›
Self Guided Samaria Gorge Hike in Crete, Greece (Updated MAy 2024!) The Samaria Gorge hike is the most popular hike in Crete, and for good reason! This one-way hike is jaw-droppingly beautiful and ends in a quaint Greek town. Many folks will do a guided tour but you definitely do not need one.
How much does it cost to walk the Gorge of Samaria? ›
To enter the Gorge of Samaria there is an entrance fee that costs five (5) euros. Children under 15 years old have a free pass.
What is the easy way at Samaria Gorge? ›
If you prefer to explore the Samaria Gorge the easy way, you need to get to the village of Agia Roumely by ferry and take it from there. If that's too hard for you, you can get to the gorge by shuttle bus. It goes about every ten minutes and costs only 2 €uros per trip. Leaving the small port of Sougia.
Why is Samaria Gorge closed? ›
Samaria Gorge will remain closed until Monday, August 21, 2023, due to fear of aftershocks and landslides after the earthquake of 4.9 R ten days ago. The Gorge will be accessible again as of Tuesday, August 22. However, visitors will need to sign a declaration that “assume responsibility in case of danger.”
What is the myth of Samaria Gorge? ›
According to mythology, Samaria gorge was created by a Cretan Titan who stabbed Earth. Another legend has it that on top of Gigilos, opposite Xyloskalo, there was the throne of Zeus and below it there was a cave named Demonospilia (=Cave of the Demons).
Imbros gorge is the second most popular gorge walk in Crete, after the Samaria Gorge. The walk is 7km long and in some parts, it becomes very narrow. The entrance of the gorge starts at Imbros village and there is plenty of space to park your car. The walk is fairly easy and not a steep descent.
Can you walk back up Samaria Gorge? ›
With bus to Hora Sfakio or to Sougia (pedending on which side of Crete you are staying) from there a boat ride to Agia Roumeli and the hike upwards all the way or as far as you can and turn then back down again. 3. Or then go with own car in early morning to the top hike down and back up and drive away.
How long does it take to hike the Samaria Gorge? ›
Samaria Gorge hike
The average time spent walking through the Samaria Gorge is 4-6 hours or even more on a rough, rocky footpath along the riverbed. It is mostly downhill and quite steep at the beginning. The trail starts among the White Mountains and winds down into a deep gorge.
What is the most beautiful part of Crete? ›
Arguably the prettiest village in the whole of Crete is Margarites. Located 27 kilometres east of Rethymnon, underneath of Mount Psiloritis, the village is best known as being the pottery center of Crete. Traditional Creten village of Margarites, famous for its handmade ceramics.
Can I walk the Samaria Gorge in trainers? ›
Only ever wear good walking boots or trainers with a thick sole (the terrain is rough underfoot and you would be in agony in unsuitable footwear). Please do not consider wearing anything with open toes (even walking sandals), as the boulders on the riverbed at the bottom will easily give you black toenails.
How hard is Grotto Falls? ›
Trail Notes: The roundtrip distance to the waterfall is 2.6 miles and the hike is generally considered moderate in difficulty. It takes about 2-3 hours to hike to the waterfall and back. Carry drinking water with you. Portions of this trail are rocky-sturdy hiking shoes are recommended.
What to wear hiking in Samaria Gorge? ›
No food is available in the Samaria Gorge, so bring your own snacks. You will need just a small bottle of water which can be refilled at all resting places. Walking boots or hiking shoes is a must. No sandals will do.
