By Clodagh Kinsella
July 24, 2023
A tiny island in the Grenadines archipelago, Canouan is – for those in the know – the ultimate hideaway. Coral reefs fringe its turquoise shallows and powder-fine beaches, while the tortoises that gave the island its name still set the pace in these parts.
What do do on arrival...
DIP
The big decision? Which of Mandarin Oriental, Canouan’s five private beaches to choose. Protected by the Caribbean’s largest natural coral reef, Godahl Beach is idyllic, with its white sands and glinting waves, while the curving Shell Beach, on the southeast coast, is accessible by golf buggy or boat.
FEAST
Freshly landed by local fishing boats, the seafood is a highlight here. Lunch on flawless sashimi at the Pool Bar,overlooking the sweep of the bay, or order a whole grilled lobster on the terrace at TIDES BAR + GRILL.
HIKE
Climb the 877ft Mount Royal, Canouan’s highest peak, with the hotel’s resident nature guide. It’s a short but steep trek, rewarded with panoramic views of neighbouring Mustique, Union Island and Petit St Vincent – all the while spotting local wildlife, from tiny, crested hummingbirds to tree-climbing hermit crabs.
TASTE
Wherever you go in the Caribbean, rum is part of the culture. Try a tasting flight at Turtles with a side of local chocolate, or indulge in the Pool Bar’s expertly mixed rum punches. Alternatively, try the Canouan Hurricane, which tempers dark rum and amaretto with passion fruit and lime.
If you're visiting for the weekend...
PLAY
Designed by Jim Fazio, Canouan’s championship golf courseis pure drama, skirting the ocean then rising to a ridge around Mount Royal. Holes 12 to 15, overlooking the Grenadine islands, are the most challenging: to calm your nerves, ask the concierge about sunset co*cktails at the 13th.
SNORKEL
Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed at nearby Tobago Cays, an archipelago of five uninhabited islands. With its crystal waters, green sea turtles and vivid reefs, it offers world-class snorkelling.Zip over on a catamaran or power boat, then swim up to the miniscule Mayreau island for lunch.
DISCOVER
Commandeer a golf buggy and head for Sandy Lane marina for shopping and a laidback lunch – fish tacos and sushi on the beach at Shenanigans, perhaps. Later in the day, Scruffy’s draws yachties and residents with cold beers, front-row sea views and addictive popcorn chicken.
RELAX
While the small fry hit the Pirates of Canouan Kids’ Club,with its pools, pirate ship and gaming room, grown-ups can sign up for a masterclass in Vincentian cooking and craft co*cktails. On the menu: jerk chicken, scotch bonnet-spiked callaloo soup and boozy dark rum cake.
If you're staying a little longer...
SAIL
The neighbouring island of Mustique makes for a memorable day trip. Horseback riding and tennis are both a joy here – and no trip to the island is complete without a Hairoun beer at Basil’s Bar, which has lured in fishermen, rock stars and off-duty royals for half a century.
DISCOVER
The Southern Grenadines are a great place to snorkel and scuba.Head for Mayreau Gardens, with its coral gardens and sea turtles, or scope out the wreck of the Puruni, a British patrol boat that sank in 1918. Prefer to hook a bonefish or tarpon? Grenadines Fishingis happy to arrange private charters.
DRINK
Just off Union Island, ‘Happy Island’has to be seen to be believed: a tiny isle, built on a foundation of stones, cement and conch shells. It’s home to a singular rum bar, only accessible by small boat, where you can meet its hospitable creator, the larger-than-life Janti Ramage.
ESCAPE
For desert-island dining at its most romantic, sign up for the hotel’s Castaway experience. With a boat and staff at your disposal, options range from handsome picnics to dinner on the beach: think barbecued tiger prawns and lobster tails below a canopy of stars.
This island is famous for its resident red-footed tortoises, who you’ll definitely encounter. There are also a lot of turtles – ‘Canouan’ is derived from the Arawakan word for turtle. Our nature expert, Kezroy, has created a turtle sanctuary with an elevated platform to care for hatchlings that need help. Guests are welcome to visit it.
- The concierge team at Mandarin Oriental, Canouan.
Do as the locals do
Pro kitesurfer Jeremie Tronet, founder of Union Island’s JT Pro Center Kitesurfing School, shares three of his favourite addresses.
Petit Bateau
“In the Tobago Cays, Petit Bateau is the only island where barbecues are allowed. Locals set up grills, and it’s a great place for a lobster lunch. Afterwards, head for the smallest island, Jamesby, where you can hike up the hillside for beautiful views of the Cays.”
Salt Whistle Bay
“On Mayreau, Salt Whistle Bay is one of my favourite beaches; a palm-fringed tropical paradise, with clear turquoise waters. It’s great for experienced kitesurfers, who congregate at one end, and there’s a small, very charming village church a short walk away.”
Sparrow’s Beach Club
“A lot of people who come to Union Island to kitesurf like to stop by Sparrow’s Beach Clubfor lunch. Run by a French guy, it’s a beautiful restaurant on the sand that serves fantastic local seafood.”
Find time to unwind
The Spais an exercise in escapism, with thatched treatment suites set over the water, or hidden on a wooded hillside (take the funicular, then follow the winding walkway). Its signatures run from the Golfer’s Tonic massage to the Blissful Sea experience, which centres on a tension-melting Himalayan salt-stone massage.
The hotel is set in a 1,200-acre estate, best explored on electric bikes.Look out for the 17th-century Anglican church brought over from England, and reconstructed stone by stone (Fans of M.O. can also sign up for a lantern-lit evening tour). And, if you’re curious about Canouan’s resident red-footed tortoises, sign up for a talk at the turtle sanctuary.
All offers and experiences available at time of publication. Please contact the team for more information.
About the Author
Clodagh Kinsella
Specialising in travel and culture, Clodagh has written for Condé Nast Traveller, The Independent and Monocle.